In a our 2 Namibian adventures we barely scratched the surface of the beauty the country has to offer, and almost every day had something new and exciting. With more time, there is plenty more to see in this beautiful country so check out our Namibia 12 day itinerary and our 15 day Namibia and Botswana itinerary for more details.
1-Okaukuejo National Park
Okaykuejo Resort is close to Etosha National Park and is situated around a floodlit watering hole. Zebras, giraffes, rihonos, orynx and plenty of other wildlife frequent the watering hole to quench their thirst both during the day and night. Although we saw plenty in daylight hours, it was the hours after sunset which were the most active.
There is a campground, and various different types of chalets, including the premium waterhole chalet. This was the first reservation we made with the rest of the trip was booked around it. In hindsight we were incredibly lucky to book this chalet only a few weeks out as the do seem to book up fast. We ended up the the best chalet, number 32c, with a amazing view of the watering hole. We watched all of the action that night from our balcony enjoying our wine and cheese, occasionally heading closer to take photos of the wildlife approaching for a drink.
If you don’t manage to get a premium chalet, you still get great views from the benches beside the watering hole. Many families and couples were gathered with their blankets and wine around sunset.
Where to stay
Hands down, if it is available, stay at the premium waterhole chalets. These are well set up with 2 bedrooms so sleep 4, and cost approximately 200GBP per night. A 2 bedroom chalet, located a little further back from the waterhole is around 100GBP and there are also, rooms, 1 bedroom chalets and a campsite for only 20GBP. Bookings and rates are through the NWR (Namibia Wialflife Resorts) website. If you decide not to stay at the Okaykuejo Resort, there are campsites and lodge close by.
2-Self drive Safari through Etosha National Park
Although we had seen giraffes, zebras and some other wildlife, the excitement for Etosha was high with the possibility of Rhinos, Elephants, Lions and other big game. (The previous day we had failed to find any Rhinos so the pressure was on!) We weren’t concerned about setting off too early as the guide at the previous game reserve had said that in the winter morning game drives are less successful then afternoon ones.
Within 10 minutes of entering Etosha we came across a few cars stopped with the passengers scanning the bush. According to one driver there were lions but try as we might, our binoculars nor our camera lens were finding them. A few things we learnt about self drive:
- take your time and be patient. Plan to be out there the whole day. We started at Okaujuego and ended at Namutoni. Although Google maps says that this is a 2hour 28 minute drive, we drove for approximately 5 hours. Making it the whole way along the Etosha Pan and back in a day is ambitious!
- Find a guided safari tour and stay behind them for a while. A couple of times we came across the guided tours in the open seater trucks. We happened to stop behind one and look in the general directions the occupants were scanning in and due to a slight movement, we saw Cheetahs. Be courteous, and don’t crowd other vehicles.
- Take the side roads. There are a few roads off the main road that turn into dead ends. On one of these roads is where we had a black rhinos feet from our truck
- Take Binoculars and a car window tripod mount for your camera. We chose to take a Panasonic Lumix dc fz80– a perfect bridge camera to avoid the stress of lens changes. We also had a DJ that stabilized our phones while filming. A small paid of binoculars didn’t take up too much room in our bag and were perfect for scanning the horizon. For more info on what we pack for our self drive safari, including electronics check out post on our favorite adventure gear for a self drive safari.
- You will get better at spotting wildlife For the first hour, every 3 minutes I would scream “slow down I see something”. For my patient husband driving the stop-and-go became a little frustrating, as did the no descript shout of “There” For the most part, these sighting were bushes silouted in the sunny haze. The most amusing and quickest stop was in response to the excited cry from Andi in the back of the car “a baby rhino!” It turned out to be a warthog! Every so often, it would be an ostrich and once, even an elephant! But as the journey continued, the realization set in that scanning the horizon wasn’t going to yield as many sighting as hoped. However, there was plenty of wildlife only a couple hundred feet from the road. And plenty of Zebras crossing!
- If you have time, consider taking a guided safari. Our theory that following the safari trucks would yielded results, worked sometimes, but there was a few times were we would be stopped and stare out into the bush wondering what they were seeing and wishing we could here the guides commentary. With more time, taking the opportunity to soak up the knowledge of the guides would be preferable. Although we saw plenty of big game and animals in open planes, we lacked any of the more camouflaged animals such as lions, leopards and cheetahs.
Where to Stay
In Etosha National Park, there are 3 main camps to stay – Okakugie, Namutoni and Halaai. We didn’t stay or pass through Halaai but between Okakjai and Namutoni, Okajajui is by far the better option. there is a watering hole at Namutoni and although a perfectly fine place to camp after 4 hours drive, there is really no action at the waterhole and very empty and basic facilities. The location did yield some amazing sunset photos though. The fort and museum were both closed so even immersing in the history of the place wasn’t possible.
3-Namib-Naukluft National Park
Namib-Naukluft National Park is the oldest dessert in the world and home to some of the most amazing landscapes you will ever see. It stretches’ West from Windhoek to reach the Atlantic Ocean. There are many beautiful sights and locations, most famously Deadvlei, Sesrium Canyon and some of the highest sand dunes in the world.
Deadvlei
Deadvlei means “dead-marsh” and is a group of 900year old trees that cannot decompose due to the dry climate. Its a photographers paradise with the contrast of the dark trees against the white salt pan and the rusty red dunes. If you camp within the gates of the Namib-Naukluft National Park you will be able to get to Deadvlei early and avoid crowds. We were lucky enough to get there early and get some great photos. We spent approximately 40mins (including the walk) here and then jumped on the shuttle to the next stop.
How to get there:
From the gates of the Namib-Nakluft park it is about an hour drive until you find a car park. On your way down you will pass plenty of view points including Dune 45, the highest sand dune in the world to climb. (Unfortunately it was too windy for us to climb that day). When your reach the car park you will be greeted by one of the NWR park rangers. They will explain to you that you can continue the drive at your own risk. You will need to deflate you tires for sand driving and be prepared for the bumpy road. The park ranger will warn you that if you get stuck you are on your own. Realistically, there is a fee for recovery if you get stuck.
The best choice to to park your car and hop in one of the NWR trucks for a small fee. They only take payment when you come back so you know they are going to get you back! It is about a 15minute drive to the start of the walk to Deadvlei. and then about a 10 minute walk each way to get to the trees. Its not a tough walk but walking on sand is never easy especially against the wind.
Sossusvlei
Technically, Soussusvlei is the salt and clay pan at the end of the Tsauchab River’s course. This is where the impressive sand dunes impede the rivers from going any further meaning it – the translation of “soussosvlei” to “dead-end marsh”. This is the second stop on the shuttle in the area. Here you can climb more of the red dunes or sit and watching the wildlife around this salt pan.
Sessriem Canyon
Close to the gates of the park, there is a very unassuming road with no signposts. In fact, had we not given a ride to one of the park rangers, we probably would have missed it. Since it was late in the day, we didn’t have as much time there as we would have liked. Kids will love it! It is certainly worth taking the time to explore it. The Tsauchab River formed the canyon over millions of years and it is one of the few places in the dessert that holds water all year round.
Where to stay
The Namib-Nakluft National Park is full of options to stay, whether you are budget or luxury or somewhere in between. We stayed in a couple of options and even checked out a high end option- perhaps for next time. Namibia has a fantastic range of options at almost all attraction so check out our recommendations- some where we have stayed and some on our future lsit.
Camping:
Sessrium Oshana- although we had a rough night due to abnormal winds this was a great choice. The only camp site located inside the gates of the Namib- Nakluft, each site has its own shower and bathroom facilities, brai pit, power and outdoor sink. With unobstructed views to the dessert we spent an enjoyable evening cooking over an open flame with only a few other campers around.
Midrange:
We stayed here on our second night and it was perfect after a long day exploring. It offers fully equipped outdoor kitchens with each unit, a pool, a bar with wifi and is only a short distance drive to the Soussovlei Lodge if you want a amazing buffet dinner. This dinner was such a experience, we still talk about it now.
Top Luxury Picks:
Soussoveli Lodge, located at the gates of the Namib-Nakluft park offers unsurpassed views of the dessert and offers a great buffet dinner with different stations to sample Namibia meats. (Tip- wrap up warm and sit outside for dinner, the atmosphere is much better)
With its own entrance to the Park, Dead Valley Lodge is a great option for those keen to get to Deadvlei before the crowds
4-Skeleton Coast
The skeleton coast stretches’ from the border of Angola for about 500km down to the town of Swakpomound. Its it rugged, harsh and barely inhabited. The night before our planned drive down part of the skeleton coast we were apprehensive, wondering about the state of the road, to the point where our hotel discouraged us from the morning game drive in order to leave at a reasonable time to make it to Cape Cross.
Driving from Damarland on return to Walvis Bay, there are 2 routes. The easiest and quickest route will take you on approximately a 4 hour drive down the C35 direct. The other option to to input Torra Bay into Google maps. This will take have you intersecting the coast and driving 185 miles of the Skeleton Coast. It will definitely add some driving time, but to see the rugged landscape is unparalleled.
During certain times of the year it is unadvisable to go North of Torra Bay. There are fishing camps and campsites, but they are usually only open during the summer months. If you want a really unique experience, one that we wished we could have afforded and had time to do, check out Ship Wreck Lodge
Heading South from Torra Bay, parts of the drive will be ocean view and parts, you will wonder how far from the ocean you are. With a good 4×4 and some confidence, there are a few tracks you can take that head closer to the ocean. Bare in mind that this is sand driving so some skill and knowledge of 4×4 and emergency procedures would be good preparation. There are plenty of signposts on the road marking attractions, fishing spots and my personal favorite – “Beware of the rabid Jackals”. Further south, you pass cars more frequently coming up from Swakopmund and Walvis Bay for fishing.
Where to Stay
Accommodation options are fairly limited North of Cape Cross. If you happen to be travelling in December or January, Torra Bay Campsite is open. Alternatively, mile 108 has very basic camping whereas Terrace Bay is a NWR resort.
We decided to stay further south at the campsites Cape Cross Lodge. It was more expensive then the average campsite but a welcome respite from a days driving. Here, the view is sacrificed for a walled campsite which protects campers from the high winds. A stroll or a sunset drink on the beach will satisfy you craving for a view and when the chilly winds pick up, and you enjoy a warm shower you will realize the value of the site. You certainly feel the civilization encroaching here. It seems to be a destination for groups of people enjoying a short break from the city for fishing and relaxing.
5-Damarland & Vingerklip
The amazing thing about Namibia is stopping and thinking that the number of people in the same square mile as you is probably the least you have ever experienced. You really feel this is Damarland and Vingerklip. Damarland is characterized by its rocked landscape with the Ugab valley being the most stunning. Here, the valley is dotted with table mountains and plateaus.
The Eagles Nest at Vingerklip Lodge is not to be missed. If you are happy to take a 20 minute hike up one of these plateaus to your the luxury bungalow at Heaven’s Gate, you will be rewarded with the most stunning views, amazing sunset and complete isolation for the night. Other then at dinner where the rest of the Vingerklip lodge guests will join you for a meal in the Eagles Nest restaurant.
With money left in our budget we decided to splurge a little in Damarland and stay at Camp Kipwe. It was one of the most relaxing afternoons of the trip, spent listening to audio books and drinking cider. It also didn’t disappoint with sunset watched from a plateua with snacks and drinks aswell as a delcious dinner and breakfast.
6- Ghaub Nature Reserve and Farm
Ghaub is ideally located as a stop over between Caprivi Strip and Etosha. It is a small lodge with only 4 campsites and a few rooms. It seems to either have been passed it hayday or just in need of a little upkeep before high season. The small staff are wonderful and seem to do everything from checking in, to cleaning the pool to doing the guided walks and tours. The campsite are well set up with a covered patio area, a brai pit and a good sized bathroom. Every night the staff come round and start the “donkey”. Basically, they light the fire under the water tank for hot water. You can roam around the grounds on various trails. Another family had been lucky enough to come very close to Rhinos whereas our walks yielded warthogs.
The Rhinos in the park are guarded 24/7 by a rhino patrol who follow them around to deter poachers. All staff are in constant communications via radio and luckily we saw a few rhino on our way to the cave.
Our most thrilling, and potentially dangerous activity was going for the cave excursion. This is not for anyone claustrophobic or with any kind of breathing difficulties. You will be crawling, climbing and scrambling so a good fitness level is required. The further you go into the cave, the thinner the air becomes. For a scientific explanation, there is no air exchange in the cave. The more people that go in, the less oxygen there is and the higher the carbon dioxide is. However, this was one of Andi’s and I’s favorite activity! Be prepared to get dirty, sweaty and exit on a adrenaline high!
7- Erongo Rocks
Another geological hidden gem of Namibia, the Erongo Mountains are located just over 2 hours from Swakpomund and are a nature lovers paradise. There are plenty of accommodation options around the area but we stayed at Erongo Rocks Farmhouse and Camping. With a few campsites very well spread out, trails marked on a detailed map given at check-in and extremely friendly hosts, you will spend the night camping among big boulders and the day scrambling up the surrounding rock formations. The campsites incorporate the rocks into the designs, even including the bathrooms!
8-Sunsets every night
Sundowners in Namibia are a nightly event and its easy to realize why it almost a religious practice. From our first spectacular (but cold!) sunset at Walvis Bay which marked the beginning of our adventure to the wild animal silhouettes at the waterholes, we made sure that we fully embraced this daily practice.
